I was given this black stretch jersey gown that needed hemmed only
a little. The jersey was the thick type
that had a little bit of stretch. I
found this original hem to be very different than the ones I’ve seen. It was a very skinny hem with a serged raw
edge which was pressed up. Since I don’t have a serger, my regular sewing machine
can still simulate an overlock stitch. I wanted to duplicate the original hem, so my plan was to mark the new hem,
overlock stitch slightly below the new hem line, and sew a straight stitch for the new
hem.
I know with jersey, you normally don’t sew straight
stitches, but with this fabric I found
it still had a little give after sewing a straight stitch. I tested a scrap piece first. With jersey, you normally sew a zig zag or a
straight stretch stitch, somehow the
other way worked for this material! I think
because it was so thick, it worked. On
with the tutorial!
Here is the gown before pinning up. We just needed a little length removed.
I replaced the safety pins with straight pins and marked the new hem length with chalk. These white chalk marks will be the new hem.
I sewed an overlock stitch slightly below the new hemline. If you can see the little chalk mark and my overlock stitching, it's a short distance.
I don't cut anything yet. My next step is to fold over the excess underneath. I pin it to the new hem length.
Here is the underside of it. I'm going to do my straight stitch close to the edge - just like the original which you can still see towards the top. It's a very skinny hem.
I sew a straight stitch right side up, close to the edge.
I trimmed the excess fabric close to the overlock stitch and pressed.
Now it was time to hem the lining. I placed the gown on my dress form to mark up. The lining is always a little shorter than the outside fabric.
I used my twin needle to hem the lining. This stitch provides the stretch it needs. This lining is more stretchy than the outside fabric.
I trimmed the excess lining near the stitching and pressed.
Now it was time to reattach the lining to the fabric at the vent in front. I just reattached it with a straight stitch here. I did this for both sides of the vent (slit at the leg).
On both sides underneath, I re-created the thread chain that holds the lining and fabric in place. The thread chains help keep the skirt from shifting.
Finished! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and thanks for stopping by! 😀🧵🧷👗
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