Sophia's Satin Ball Gown + Tutorial

May 18, 2022

 



Here is Sophia in her emerald satin ballgown for her MCS banquet.  This vibrant gown was almost a full circle skirt of endless satin.  It needed hemmed and taken in at the princess seam at the top. 

The skirt's satin fabric and lining were enclosed. This is called a bagged or enclosed lining.  I had to open up a few seams under the lining to gain access and do the work from the inside. The princess seams needed to be taken in a little because it was causing the top to puff out at the top. Taking in each seam resolved that issue.  
 







Here's the skirt at the beginning which needed hemmed.


Here it is pinned up a little above the floor.


Almost a full circle! It helps to take measurements and write them down for my own notes.  


It generally needed 2-1/8" taken up all the way around. 


I marked the cutting line with white chalk.  I made the cut line 5/8" less to keep seam allowance. 


I started cutting. This took a little while, but I had the help of my ergonomic scissors. 



I started opening one of the linings so I can access the inside. I had to pull both the satin and the lining from the inside so I can sew the raw edges together from there.  This is called a bagged or enclosed lining.


I extended the lining a little past the satin and marked with chalk the first stitch line


Stitched.


This was my second stitching - I under stitched the seam allowance to the lining.


I pressed the edge down a little past the satin.  This way you won't see the lining from the right side.


Closed up one of the openings in the lining.


Stitched back up the lining.


Now it's time to move on to the halter top. This is the inside lining and the seam I have to take apart and take in.


Outside of princess seam.


I went under the skirt, so I can find a lining seam to gain access underneath the halter top.


I pulled the halter top through the hole and here it what I must take apart. The princess seam.


Stitches are ripped out to the measurement point.  I also partially ripped out the boning in the lining.


I marked with a curve ruler and pencil the new stitch line.


I did this alteration for both sides - satin and lining.  I trimmed the excess, stitched the boning back to the lining seam, pressed. 


Here, I had to complete the stitching on the lining side of the boning.




This was my final part where the lining is sandwiched with the satin.  Once that was stitched. I turned everything over and pressed on the right side.  I stitched up the openings in the linings also.

Hope you enjoyed this post!

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